Amargosa Opera House:
Several weeks ago, while finalizing the itinerary for the Death Valley trip in March 2022, I decided to revisit a quaint little location that I had discovered several years ago. In January 2017, while traveling through Death Valley, I stumbled upon a tiny desert community, 'Death Valley Junction,' devoid of stores, bars, or restaurants, and inhabited by just two residents. Like the opening scene of a 60s Hitchcock movie, I slowly rolled through town, searching for signs of life. A dusty old coyote on the side of the road, unperturbed, made eye contact and gradually turned his head to watch me pass. Then, through a sudden gust that picked up a cloud of desert dust while pushing a bouncing tumbleweed, I spotted an unusual little haunt on Highway 127—the 'Amargosa Opera House Motel.' At first glance, this sinister-looking hotel seemed to leap straight from the pages of a Robert Block novel, creating an eerie feeling of being watched. The lyrics to 'Hotel California' sprang to mind, but after stopping and hearing the unique and charming backstory to the site, I decided to book a room and stay the night.
The Amargosa Hotel, 608 Death Valley Junction, Death Valley, CA 92328.
As the story goes: Iin March 1967: during a break from touring her one-woman show across America, Marta Becket—a New York ballet dancer, mime artist, and actress—accompanied by her husband Tom, had a fortuitous stop at Death Valley Junction to address a flat tire. Intrigued by the surroundings, Marta explored the old adobe buildings and chanced upon Corkill Hall, the town's former social hall. Peering through a small hole in the door, Marta felt an immediate connection; this space was meant for her. Driven by her lifelong desire to create shows, choreograph dances, and design costumes, Marta and Tom approached the property manager to inquire about renting the space. They were informed that the property was available for $45.00 per month if they took on the responsibility for repairs. Marta and Tom secured the lease with a promissory note and a dollar bill the following morning before returning to New York City to pack their belongings. Marta christened the theater the 'Amargosa Opera House.' Almost a year later, on February 10, 1968, she delivered her inaugural performance.
The Amargosa Opera House, 608 Death Valley Junction, Death Valley, CA 92328.
As it is today, the stage displays some of Marta's costumes and hand-painted sets.
A view from the foot of the stage looking back towards the entrance into the opera house. Marta Becket painted the opera house's interior for 6-years, between 1968-1974. She conceived the plan to paint a Renaissance courtly audience on its walls—even if a live audience was not present, a fantasy assemblage could forever gaze upon her as she performed.
Imagine, in the middle of nowhere, on the edge of Death Valley, a dilapidated old hall that had fallen into disrepair, and Marta Becket rents it to put on dance performances. However, due to the isolation, nobody comes. So, she paints her audience on the theater walls—then staged dance and mime shows for them from the late 1960s until her final performance in February 2012.
The King and Queen are the central focus point of Marta's Renaissance courtly audience; they are centralized over the main entrance. Damage is clearly visible throughout the opera house; time, and the weather, are slowly taking their toll on the adobe walls.
The intricate designs of her paintings are incredible to see up close; so much talent in one woman. But unfortunately, these marvelous murals could become a thing of the past without donations—and only exist in photographs.
The lighting within the opera house was tricky; the protective varnish was problematic with reflections.
In 2017, a room cost $70.00 per night; the hotel operated primarily on donations. It promoted itself as a 'Once in a lifetime experience.' However, guests were cautioned on the website not to anticipate even the most basic luxuries one would hope for from the most fundamental of roadside motels. Constructed with adobe, the rooms tend to be chilly in winter. There were no televisions or coffee-making facilities, and in some cases, no heating. The bathrooms featured original 1930s plumbing, and the water was lukewarm
As of March 2022, the rooms are advertised for around $100.00 per night. Have the facilities improved? Not really! According to Mr. Fred Conboy, President of the Board of Directors at Amargosa Opera House, Inc., "The preservation work is costly and slow; we live on one lung and barely keep our heads above water. The hotel currently offers 12 serviceable rooms. Since the onset of COVID-19, it has become a challenge to uphold Marta's legacy, and today's donations are more critical than ever."
The hotel describes itself as follows: "Each 'simply' furnished room at the Amargosa Opera House and Hotel is equipped with air conditioning, and complimentary toiletries are provided. Additionally, the hotel offers coffee for guest convenience." Unfortunately, due to financial constraints and a lack of donations, plumbing issues persist, and televisions are not available. However, having stayed there myself, I can attest that it is a charming little place—an enjoyable experience in this modern era. To sustain this remarkable establishment, they are in desperate need of guests and donations. Therefore, please consider making a small contribution if you can.
Marta Becket
Google Maps: 36.302051, -116.414578