The Mother Road (Route 66).
The Mother Road:
Route 66 remains one of America’s most iconic highways, once spanning eight states and three time zones. Although officially removed from the United States Highway System in 1985, parts of the original road and its alternate alignments still exist today. American author John Steinbeck famously dubbed Route 66 “The Mother Road” in his novel The Grapes of Wrath, vividly portraying Dust Bowl migrants seeking hope and opportunity on their westward journey during the Great Depression.
Today, the longest drivable stretch of the original road can be found between Victorville, California, and Seligman, Arizona, spanning 341 miles. Despite a 48-mile detour from outside Amboy, California, to the Mountain Springs Road intersection with I-40 due to flash flood bridge damage, this well-preserved section offers a nostalgic journey through small towns, historic landmarks, and scenic desert landscapes, attracting road trip enthusiasts and history buffs alike.
During a recent road trip through California, I altered my original itinerary to experience this historic highway by driving the iconic stretch between Victorville and Seligman. In preparation for this journey, I revisited Steinbeck's book. Having read it in my younger days and being a fan of the 1940 movie adaptation directed by John Ford and starring Henry Fonda, The Grapes of Wrath provided a profound sense of connection to the struggles and hopes of the Dust Bowl migrants who once traveled this very route.
I began my drive on the National Trails Highway (Route 66) where it intersects with I-15 in Victorville, California. After grabbing a coffee at the Arco gas station, I queued up a playlist of 1960s songs, hit play, and set off to the rhythm of Canned Heat’s 1968 track “On the Road Again.” As I traveled, the road revealed a blend of nostalgia and modernity—well-preserved stretches of the original pavement interspersed with contemporary upgrades. The expansive desert, rugged mountains, and clusters of cholla cacti created a striking backdrop, with each mile echoing the mid-20th-century Americana that has long defined Route 66.
Despite its rich historical ambiance, it has become evident that the legendary allure of Route 66 is steadily yielding to decay. While physical sections of the road persist, the nostalgic infrastructure that once made the highway a unique adventure is fading. Time has taken its toll, with distinctive roadside diners, quirky motels, and neon signs giving way to more impersonal developments. Today, the route is markedly different from just a few years ago, and it will continue to erode in the years to come. In an era of rapid development and technological advancement, it seems we no longer have time for the old. Route 66 symbolized exploration and freedom, featuring sideshow attractions and a dynamic cultural landscape. It was a road where every turn offered a unique experience. Preserving and valuing the spirit of Route 66 is essential—not just as a road, but as a symbol of a bygone era that profoundly shaped the American experience.
The California Segment: Heading East (179 Miles)
The Oro Grande Bridge:
The 1930 Rockfield Bridge, also known as the Oro Grande Bridge or Route 66 Bridge, is the first notable stop along Route 66 heading east from Victorville, located just west of Oro Grande. This Modified Baltimore Through Truss Bridge spans 575 feet over the Mojave River, with its longest span measuring 270 feet and a deck width of just over 34 feet. The staggered side trusses create an optical illusion, distorting the bridge’s appearance in photographs taken from certain viewpoints.
Constructed during a significant period of infrastructure development in the United States, the bridge served as a vital connection for travelers along Route 66, which played a crucial role in westward expansion and migration during the Great Depression. The Rockfield Bridge is notable not only for its engineering but also for its historical significance in connecting communities and facilitating commerce in the region. As one of the few remaining examples of its design, it stands as a testament to advancements in early 20th-century bridge construction and contributes to the legacy of American road travel. Today, it remains a cherished landmark and a popular spot for photographers and Route 66 enthusiasts.
The 1930 Rockfield Bridge, also known as the Oro Grande Bridge or Route 66 Bridge.
Oro Grande, California.
Oro Grande is a small community with a rich history that embodies the spirit of the American West. Originally established as a mining town in the late 19th century, it played a pivotal role in the transportation of goods and resources, thanks to its strategic location. The town’s name, meaning “big gold” in Spanish, nods to its early days when gold mining attracted fortune seekers. Today, remnants of that past can be seen in the vintage storefronts and historic buildings that still line the area, offering a nostalgic glimpse into the bustling activity that once defined the community.
The Cross Eyed Cow, a quirky restaurant established in 2012, offers a modern twist to the area. Known for its pizza, the eatery has quickly become a beloved stop for travelers and locals alike, contributing to the community’s charm.
1970s Volkswagen Camper, the Cross Eyed Cow.
This vibrant mural on a store’s exterior vividly depicts the entire Route 66, stretching from Chicago, Illinois, to Santa Monica, California, highlighting Oro Grande’s position along this iconic highway.
The Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch in Oro Grande, is a whimsical and iconic roadside attraction along Route 66. Created by Elmer Long, the ranch features hundreds of “bottle trees”—metal poles adorned with colorful glass bottles that reflect the desert sunlight. Each “tree” is a unique work of art, and the entire installation creates an almost magical atmosphere, with the bottles chiming in the wind and catching the light in a kaleidoscope of colors. Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch is a beloved stop for Route 66 travelers, offering a quirky, creative, and photogenic experience in the heart of the Mojave Desert.
Gasoline and Combustion | Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch.
The Cowboy | Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch.
Underwood Standard Typewriter No 5 | Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch.
Barstow, California:
Established as a vital railroad town in the late 19th century, Barstow became a critical stop along Route 66 by the mid-20th century, connecting travelers with nearby desert landmarks. The Route 66 Motel in Barstow is a quintessential relic of the golden age of road travel, originally built in 1922. Its iconic neon sign and vintage cars capture the essence of mid-century American motoring culture. The motel, with its no-frills interior, offers an authentic glimpse into this era, representing the spirit of adventure that characterized Route 66’s heyday. Barstow’s importance as a transportation hub made it a natural stop for both railroad passengers and highway travelers, and the Route 66 Motel stands as a reminder of this heritage, preserving the history and charm of the once-bustling road.
The Route 66 Motel in Barstow.
Free Wi-Fi, round beds, and HBO: these vintage retro signs evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding us of the quirky charm of motels from a bygone era. While these amenities have become standard in today’s hotel offerings, their original appeal was undeniably unique, offering travelers a slice of comfort and entertainment during their journeys. The signs serve as a time capsule, celebrating the whimsical allure of road trips when each stop was an adventure and every sign told a story.
Once a symbol of elegance and innovation, this rusted 1940 GM LaSalle Reading Cullah now stands as a poignant reminder of a bygone era. Crafted during the last production year of the LaSalle brand, it features a powerful 322 cubic inch flathead V8 engine, delivering smooth acceleration and a touch of luxury in its stylish design. With fewer than 15,000 units produced, this vehicle represents a unique blend of sophistication and practicality from a time when the automotive landscape was on the brink of change due to World War II. Now adorned with primer paint and flat tires, it serves as a testament to its storied past and the legacy of American automotive craftsmanship.
Newbury Springs, California:
The Bagdad Cafe, originally known as the Sidewinder Cafe, is an iconic stop located 17 miles east of Barstow in Newbury Springs. It gained fame from its role in the 1987 movie Bagdad Cafe, directed by Percy Adlon. The film features Marianne Sägebrecht as Jasmin Münchgstettner, CCH Pounder as Brenda, and Jack Palance as Rudi Cox, and is celebrated for its whimsical charm and touching character interactions. Now a cherished piece of Route 66 history, the cafe continues to attract film fans and travelers alike. Given the film’s cult status, watching it from my hotel room before visiting the site felt almost obligatory. The movie is undeniably unique, with its offbeat characters and surreal setting, but it didn’t fully resonate with me. The pacing felt slow and disjointed, making it hard to stay engaged. While the whimsical tone adds to its charm, it didn’t entirely align with my tastes. That said, the story of an unlikely friendship in the desert is heartwarming, and the visuals are striking. For me, though, it was more of a “watch once to say I’ve done it” experience—worth seeing for its uniqueness, but not something I’d revisit.
A rustic and weather-beaten sign for the Bagdad Cafe stands as a testament to its long history. Faded and worn from the desert winds and sun, the sign continues to draw travelers to this iconic stop, reminiscent of the 1987 movie Bagdad Cafe.
The Bagdad Cafe, originally the Sidewinder Cafe and opened in the 1980s, is a beloved Route 66 stop known for its unique charm and vibrant atmosphere, offering travelers a taste of Americana.
Andrea Pruett became the owner of the Bagdad Cafe in Newberry Springs, California, in 1996, almost a decade after the filming of the 1987 movie Bagdad Cafe. Her ownership came at a crucial time when the cafe was gaining attention due to its feature in the movie, which helped cement its status as a quirky desert landmark. Under Andrea’s stewardship, the cafe became an iconic stop for tourists, especially those who appreciated its connection to the film. Her efforts ensured the Bagdad Cafe retained its unique atmosphere and cultural significance, drawing visitors from around the world to experience a piece of Mojave Desert history.
A friendly face at the Bagdad Café in Newberry Springs, California, and one of its dedicated employees. Although I didn’t catch her name, she graciously posed for this shot, capturing the warmth and charm of this iconic desert stop.
The Henning's motel that once stood adjacent to the Bagdad Café and played a pivotal role in the 1987 movie has long since disappeared, leaving behind a rusted retro sign. It now stands as a symbol of a bygone era, when the offer of free television was enough to entice weary travelers off the desert highway.
All that remains of the Henning Motel are some foundations. The hotel played a pivotal role in the movie Bagdad Cafe.
An Airstream caravan, similar to the one featured in the movie Bagdad Cafe where Rudi Cox (played by Jack Palance) lived, was added years later. Positioned in its original movie-set location, it continues to attract European tourists eager to experience the nostalgic charm of the film’s iconic setting.
Urban graffiti decorates the walls of the Bagdad Cafe, adding vibrant colors and a touch of regional artistry to this iconic stop. A nearby dog growled at me and bared his teeth as I tried to inch my way forward to capture his portrait, as if to say, “You’re close enough, take your picture from there and move on.”
Ludlow, California:
Ludlow is a forgotten relic of the golden age of Route 66, where derelict buildings now stand in silent testimony to its once-thriving past. Originally developed as a vital water stop for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, Ludlow was named after William B. Ludlow, a railroad car repairer. As the mining industry boomed, particularly with borax and other minerals, Ludlow became a bustling community with hotels, cafes, and businesses catering to travelers crossing the Mojave Desert.
During its heyday, Ludlow was a critical stop for travelers, offering respite in the form of a gas station, diner, and motel. The Whiting Brothers gas station, once a beacon of hospitality, remains one of the most iconic structures left standing. Its whitewashed exterior, now faded and peeling, harkens back to a time when the Whiting Brothers chain was synonymous with dependable service along Route 66, providing fuel and comfort to countless motorists. However, like many other towns along Route 66, Ludlow saw a decline in business with the construction of Interstate 40, which rerouted traffic away from the historic highway. Ironically, the very highway that diverted the flow of travelers can now be seen from the Whiting Brothers gas station, standing as a symbol of progress that turned Ludlow into a ghost town. What remains of this once-bustling stop—crumbling buildings, a broken-down motel—is now slowly being reclaimed by the desert.
Once part of a popular chain known for its dependable service, the Whiting Brothers gas station was a vital stop along Route 66. It offered travelers fuel, food, and hospitality during the golden age of the Mother Road. Today, its weathered structure stands as a poignant reminder of the bygone era when it served as a lifeline for those journeying through the Mojave Desert.
The Whiting Brothers gas station, once a beacon of hospitality, now stands as a derelict relic of a bygone era. In the background, a red and white truck speeds along Interstate 40, just a short distance from Route 66. The close proximity of the bustling interstate to the crumbling station underscores the stark irony: progress, embodied by I-40, siphoned the lifeblood of traffic away from small towns like Ludlow, leaving them to fade into history.
An old rusted trucking container sits abandoned and covered in graffiti adjacent to the Whiting Brothers retro gas station sign. In the distance, the location of the 76 gas station is surrounded by palm trees, creating an oasis in the desert that emphasizes the short distance between Interstate 40 and Ludlow, a town that once thrived on the traffic that Interstate 40 has redirected away.
The abandoned Pendergast Hotel, which once served as the town’s post office in the 1920s, is situated along Route 66. This historic hotel stands as a testament to Ludlow’s past prosperity, reflecting the town’s significance as a waystation in the Mojave Desert. Once bustling with travelers, it is now recognized as one of the best noncommercialized ghost towns in the region, attracting visitors interested in its historical charm and the remnants of its vibrant past.
This abandoned building in Ludlow, showcases the town’s ghostly charm, with its weathered exterior and graffiti markings. Once part of a bustling community, it now stands as a silent witness to the passage of time in the Mojave Desert.
Bagdad, California:
Nestled deep in the desert, Bagdad lies 75 miles southeast of Barstow (49 miles east of the Bagdad Cafe movie location in Newberry Springs) along old Route 66, in a vast valley flanked by the Bristol and Bullion Mountains. Once a thriving town, Bagdad is now home only to desert wildlife—snakes, lizards, scorpions, and pack rats. The landscape is sparse, with a few weathered salt cedars, and scattered patches of sagebrush dotting the sandy terrain. The stillness of this desolate place is occasionally broken by the rumble of freight trains that still pass through each day.
A sign along the Santa Fe railway tracks is one of the few remaining markers of Bagdad’s existence.
Founded in 1883, Bagdad was named after Baghdad, Iraq, though the spelling diverged with the omission of the “H.” Whether this was a deliberate choice by railroad officials or simply a spelling error remains unclear, but the result is a name unique to this isolated American locale. During its heyday in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Bagdad was a bustling hub, serving as a critical rail stop where steam engines could be replenished with water. The town also played a vital role in supporting nearby mining camps like Orange Blossom, War Eagle, and Lady Lou, which sought gold, silver, copper, and lava. Despite its once-thriving community, Bagdad gradually declined, and by the late 1960s, the town had faded into obscurity.
Captured on approach to Bagdad, California, this BNSF freight train crosses a Santa Fe Railway truss bridge, a remnant of the once-thriving rail system in the Mojave Desert. The vibrant orange locomotives contrast against the stark, barren landscape as they carry cargo across the Southern Transcon, a vital artery linking Southern California to the rest of the nation. The truss, adorned with graffiti, stands as a silent witness to both modern commerce and the desolate beauty of this forgotten stretch of America’s Mother Road.
Amboy, California:
Roy’s Motel and Cafe in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark, embodying the spirit of classic American road travel. Established in 1938, this iconic stop features a vintage neon sign symbolizing the enduring charm of the Mother Road. Once a bustling hub for travelers, Roy’s offers a glimpse into the past with its retro diner and nostalgic atmosphere. Despite years of decline, the cafe and motel have been preserved as historic sites, attracting generations of road trippers and Route 66 enthusiasts eager to experience a piece of American history.
Roy's Cafe and Gas Station, Amboy.
Roy's Motel and Retro Sign, Amboy.
This abandoned motel in Amboy reflects the decline of a once-thriving roadside stop, now weathered by the desert after Interstate 40 bypassed the town.
In addition to the traditional motel-style accommodations of the time, Roy’s offered first-class, detached rooms with private bathrooms just a short walk from the restaurant—a premium offering in the heart of the Mojave Desert.
Roy's Motel Retro Sign, Amboy.
The Buddha of Amboy adds mystique to this desert town, seated in meditation amidst the Mojave’s arid landscape. Likely placed by a local artist or spiritual traveler, its true origins remain unknown. Visitors often leave offerings, turning it into an impromptu shrine that captures the quirky, eclectic spirit of Route 66.
The Clothing Post at Amboy contrasts with the serene Buddha nearby. Adorned with clothing items left by travelers, it serves as a spontaneous testament to the quirky nature of the Mother Road. Its origins are mysterious, but it has become a living installation, reshaped by passersby. Unlike the Buddha’s quiet contemplation, the Clothing Post embodies the playful spirit of the journey, showcasing the unusual and unexpected discoveries in the Mojave Desert.
This view from inside a derelict building in Amboy, captures the haunting stillness of a nearly abandoned desert town. Once a bustling stop for travelers, Amboy now stands frozen in time, enduring the harsh Mojave Desert climate.
Needles:
Needles, California, is the last stop on Route 66 before crossing the Colorado River into Arizona, marking the end of the California stretch for eastbound travelers like myself. Historically, however, this desert town was a critical entry point for those migrating west during the Great Depression. As families fleeing the Dust Bowl crossed from Topock, Arizona, into California, Needles was their first taste of the Golden State, offering a crucial respite after the grueling desert trek. For many, it represented the gateway to hope and opportunity. Gas stations, diners, and motels lined Route 66, providing much-needed supplies and relief before continuing their journey. While I am traveling eastward, it’s important to remember that for those coming from the opposite direction, Needles was the first of many challenges they faced on their quest for a better life in California.
Founded in 1883, Needles was established as a key railway hub for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad (later absorbed by the Santa Fe Railroad). Its name comes from the jagged, needle-like peaks visible along the Colorado River, which became the town’s defining landmark. Needles’ strategic location on both the river and the rail lines made it a vital transportation and supply center. It quickly grew, serving not only the railroad but also as a stopping point for stagecoaches and wagon trains. With the eventual rise of automobile travel, Route 66 transformed Needles into a bustling waypoint for travelers heading west, solidifying its role as an enduring symbol of America’s westward expansion. Today, Needles stands as a quiet reminder of its storied past, a town deeply rooted in the transportation networks that shaped its history.
A colorful mural in downtown Needles depicts patriotism, Route 66, the Colorado River, the Needles Mountains, and rail travel.
The Arizona Segment: Continuing East (162 Miles)
Route 66 through Needles, California.
An archaic communication system based on a handset connected by landline to another terminal. Users were required to either connect directly by inserting a code into a digital pad, which is obscured in this image by the rudimentary handset, or use a third-party operator employed by the communications company to connect. This vintage communication system required inserting coins into a slot to allow a voice connection to be made. This instrument was a primary communication gadget back in the days when cash was a prominent feature and cables connected major metropolitan areas.
Topock, Arizona:
The Old Trails Bridge, once a vital crossing for midwestern migrants flowing into California, stands as a testament to a bygone era. Originally constructed to facilitate traffic on Route 66 over the Colorado River, it became synonymous with the plight of the “Okies”—a term coined by author John Steinbeck in The Grapes of Wrath and used derogatorily by Californians at the time to describe the overwhelming influx of migrants escaping the droughts of Oklahoma and Kansas in search of the promised land. Today, this historic structure no longer carries weary travelers but instead supports a gas pipeline, marking its transformation while serving as a reminder of the dreams and struggles of those who once traversed its span.
As Depression-era travelers approached the Colorado River crossing between Topock and Needles, the bridge signaled their imminent arrival in California, marking the endpoint of their arduous journey westward. Featured in John Ford’s film adaptation of The Grapes of Wrath, the bridge symbolized the arrival of the Joad family, encapsulating the hopes and dreams of countless migrants seeking a better life. This stretch of Route 66 represented not just a physical crossing but also a profound transition from uncertainty to hope. While modern highways may overshadow this historic landmark, it remains a poignant reminder of the resilience and aspirations that flowed across its span, marking the final approach into the Golden State.
The Old Trails Bridge, 2024. Once a vital crossing that carried countless travelers across the Colorado River during its heyday, this historic structure now serves a different purpose, supporting a gas pipeline as a testament to changing times and the evolution of infrastructure.
Oatman, Arizona:
Nestled in the Black Mountains of Arizona, Oatman once thrived as a bustling mining town during the early 1900s gold rush, attracting fortune seekers eager to strike it rich. At its peak, the town was home to thousands of miners and their families, who contributed to a vibrant community centered around the mining industry. Today, Oatman stands as a nostalgic Wild West enclave, preserving its historic charm with vintage storefronts, wooden sidewalks, and old-fashioned flair that transport visitors back in time.
Renowned for its resident burros, the descendants of pack animals used during the mining boom, these friendly creatures now roam freely through town. Beloved by visitors, the burros have become enduring symbols of Oatman’s colorful past and resilient spirit, reminding all who come of the town’s rich history and the adventurous spirit of the American West.
Arriving in Oatman, Arizona, is quite an astonishing experience, as one realizes they’ve just navigated 191 steep mountain curves over the course of 8 miles.
A novelty sign features a lyric from the 1972 Eagles song “Take it Easy,” showing the distances from Oatman, Arizona, to both Chicago, Illinois, and Los Angeles, California.
Offerings (posing brides) from the hotel breakfast bar.
Resident donkeys (burros in Spanish) pose for photographs, gladly accepting my bribes.
The wild burros of Oatman roam freely through the town, embodying its historic charm and adding to its unique character. Once pack animals during the gold rush, these friendly descendants now delight visitors and symbolize the spirit of the American West.
Tourists mingling with the resident donkeys along the wooden boardwalk of Oatman, Arizona, are a common sight. Local stores sell meal pellets, encouraging visitors to feed the friendly animals that freely roam the town. However, the donkeys’ presence leaves its mark, as the boardwalks often bear the signs of their visitations—saturated with urine and littered with fertilizer, adding a uniquely rustic feel to this historic mining town.
Local stores in Oatman, Arizona, offer a variety of Route 66-themed merchandise, from quirky souvenirs and colorful trinkets to novelty clothing that celebrates the iconic highway. These stores line the wooden boardwalks, inviting visitors to browse shelves packed with everything from vintage signs and license plates to T-shirts emblazoned with Route 66 logos, and slogans celebrating the spirit of the Mother Road.
“The Classy Ass” is a charming jewelry and gift shop that captures the quirky spirit of Oatman. The store offers a selection of locally crafted jewelry, unique gifts, and souvenirs that reflect the town’s whimsical character. Visitors can browse a variety of items, often featuring clever puns and designs inspired by Oatman’s famous wild burros. This shop enhances the eclectic atmosphere of Oatman, making it a delightful stop for those exploring the area along Route 66.
"Please Do Not Feed The Babies."
The rugged terrain surrounding Oatman has claimed the lives of countless fortune seekers over the years. These individuals ventured into the wilderness in search of gold, silver, tin, and other valuable minerals, but many met their end in the unforgiving desert landscape.
Scattered across the area are numerous unnamed wooden crosses, silent memorials to those who risked everything for the promise of wealth. Their stories, often lost to time, serve as a reminder of the perilous nature of the gold rush and the hardships faced by miners seeking fortune in the harsh Arizona desert.
The Oatman Hotel.
The Oatman Hotel, established in 1902, is a historic gem located in the heart of Oatman. Once a central hub for miners and travelers, the hotel is renowned for its rustic charm and old-fashioned hospitality. Its original architecture and vintage furnishings offer a glimpse into the past, preserving the character of a bygone era. Today, the hotel serves as a living museum of Oatman's rich history, allowing visitors to experience a taste of the Wild West with its storied past and enduring allure.
The Historic Oatman Hotel features a menu on its outside wall, adorned with signed dollar bills from around the country and stickers from around the world.
Clark Gable and Carole Lombard:
After their secret wedding in Kingman, Arizona, on March 29, 1939, Clark Gable and Carole Lombard are said to have spent their honeymoon night at the Oatman Hotel. The hotel features a room preserved behind plexiglass, claimed to be their honeymoon suite, decorated in period style with a white lace wedding dress and a pink gown draped over chairs. However, wedding photographs of Lombard show her in a jacket and skirt, suggesting that the dresses may be part of the hotel’s myth. While this tale is a beloved part of Oatman’s folklore, concrete evidence is lacking. Alternatively, the couple is also known to have honeymooned at The Inn in Furnace Creek, Death Valley, supported by historical accounts and hotel records, where they enjoyed a private retreat. Tragically, Lombard died in a plane crash in 1942, a loss that deeply affected Gable for the rest of his life.
The Clark Gable and Carole Lombard room in the Oatman Hotel, located in Oatman, Arizona, is a dusty space featuring two suggestive wedding dresses. This room is said to be where Gable and Lombard spent their honeymoon, though there is no documentation to support this popular myth. Despite the lack of evidence, the story remains a cherished piece of local folklore, adding to the hotel’s mystique.
Clark Gable and Carole Lombard on their wedding day, March 29, 1939. | Photo by W. Eugene Smith, Public Domain.
The Inn at Furnace Creek, established in 1907, began as a rest stop for miners and evolved into a luxurious hotel. Renowned for its adobe-style architecture and modern amenities, it has attracted numerous celebrities and high-profile guests over the years. Though not directly related to this project on Route 66, this image highlights the contrast between the grandeur of the Inn and the rustic charm of the Oatman Hotel, where the local myth suggests Gable and Lombard spent their honeymoon.
Kingman, Arizona:
Established in the early 1880s as a railroad town, Kingman quickly became a vital hub for transportation and industry. Its strategic location along the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, combined with its proximity to the Colorado River, allowed it to flourish as a supply center for nearby mining towns. Kingman’s role as a key stop along the railroad laid the foundation for its later importance on Route 66. The arrival of Route 66 in the 1920s cemented Kingman’s position as a critical waypoint for travelers and truckers crossing the Mojave Desert. The town became known for its welcoming motels, diners, and service stations that catered to weary travelers making the long journey through the remote desert terrain.
Route 66 brought prosperity to Kingman for several decades, as it served as a lifeline for commerce and travel between the West Coast and the heartland of America. Businesses thrived along the highway, and Kingman became a favorite stop for those venturing to California or back east. However, like many towns along Route 66, the construction of Interstate 40 in the 1970s diverted traffic away from the town, leading to economic decline. Despite this, Kingman has retained its historical charm and connection to the Mother Road.
The Kingman Arch, a charming wooden structure welcoming visitors to Kingman, Arizona, proudly displays the Route 66 logo. This iconic arch serves as a symbol of the town’s rich history and connection to the Mother Road, inviting travelers to explore the unique attractions and nostalgic charm of this vibrant stop along the historic highway.
This vibrant mural on a restaurant in Kingman, Arizona, depicts the entire Route 66, from Chicago to Santa Monica, showcasing the town’s significant location along this historic highway.
The iconic retro sign for the El Trovatore Motel captures the nostalgic essence of Route 66 with its vibrant colors and classic design. Once a popular stop for travelers seeking rest along the Mother Road, the sign remains a striking reminder of the motel’s history and the golden age of road trips in America. Today, it draws visitors with its vintage charm and serves as a photogenic landmark in Kingman.
This original Pepsi-Cola ice cooler, once light blue with bold white lettering, now stands rusted and worn, its paint faded by time. A relic of the fierce rivalry between Pepsi and Coca-Cola, it harkens back to the early days of soda marketing. Pepsi, founded in 1893 by Caleb Bradham in New Bern, North Carolina, was a contender against Coca-Cola, battling for dominance in the American soft drink industry—a rivalry that continues to this day.
Once a vital fixture at roadside stations, this rusted Sinclair gas pump, a vintage Bennett Model 766, reflects the changing landscape of America’s energy history. Founded in 1916 by Harry F. Sinclair, Sinclair Oil played a major role in fueling the country’s early automobile boom, especially along Route 66. The company’s famous dinosaur logo—Dino—became a beloved symbol, harking back to Sinclair’s marketing of oil formed from ancient fossils. While pumps like this one are now relics, they remind us of the days when Sinclair stood among the giants of American petroleum.
This weathered Texaco sign, with its unmistakable red star and green “T,” harks back to an era when Texaco was a giant in American petroleum. Founded in 1901 as the Texas Company, Texaco became synonymous with road travel in the mid-20th century, establishing a nationwide network of service stations. The brand’s reach extended along major highways, including Route 66, fueling America’s growing love affair with the automobile. Though many Texaco stations have since vanished from the landscape, remnants like this sign remind us of the company’s pivotal role in powering the country’s golden age of road travel. Signs like this can fetch thousands of dollars in the antique market, showcasing their enduring appeal among collectors and enthusiasts.
Antares Point:
The Ranchero Gas Station in Antares is a charming and historical landmark along Route 66, known for its quirky artifacts that celebrate the colorful past of the highway. Established in the mid-20th century, it served as a popular stop for travelers needing fuel and refreshments. Today, it has transformed into an iconic destination for Route 66 enthusiasts, showcasing a diverse collection of memorabilia that harkens back to the highway’s heyday.
One of the standout features of the Ranchero Gas Station is “Giganticus Headicus,” a whimsical 14-foot-tall green sculpture by artist Gregg Arnold, created in 2004. This unique roadside attraction draws the attention of many travelers and photographers. Surrounding the station, visitors can find vintage cars, old gas pumps, and various Route 66 signs, all contributing to the nostalgic atmosphere of a bygone era of American road travel. The Ranchero Gas Station perfectly blends history with charm, making it a must-see stop for anyone exploring the legendary highway.
“Giganticus Headicus,” located at Antares Point Visitor Center & Gift Shop, was created by Gregg Arnold, who transformed the former Kozy Corner Trailer Park into an artistic haven. Arnold’s work also includes other quirky pieces, such as giant robotic ants and a new 16-foot-tall statue, “Guardian of Route 66.” The vibrant green head has become a notable roadside attraction, celebrating the whimsical spirit of Route 66.
Giganticus Headicus | By Gregg Arnold.
The Ranchero retro sign.
The Camel of Route 66: A decorative art piece created from steel wire molded into the shape of a camel, incorporating a Route 66 road sign | By Gregg Arnold.
Tiki God at the Point | By Gregg Arnold.
The “Guardian of Route 66,” created by artist Gregg Arnold, is a striking 16-foot-tall sculpture made from scrap metal adorned with Route 66 insignia and logos. This whimsical figure features a larger-than-life head with exaggerated features. Installed at the Antares Point Visitor Center and Gift Shop, it serves as a guardian for travelers along this historic highway. Its colorful design and imposing size make it a memorable roadside attraction.
Truxton:
The Frontier Motel in Truxton is a remarkable symbol of the enduring legacy of Route 66, having first welcomed guests in 1951. Once a vibrant oasis for weary road-trippers, this motel embodies the spirit of mid-20th-century Americana. Its iconic neon sign, which used to shine brightly against the night sky, has since faded, evoking nostalgia for a time when the open road called for adventure. The Western-themed architecture captures the essence of exploration, reflecting the rugged charm that defines the American frontier.
Located in Truxton—a small yet significant waypoint along Route 66—the motel was instrumental in providing vital services to those heading westward. From the mid-1950s through the early 1970s, it flourished alongside the highway, offering a warm, inviting atmosphere that larger establishments often overlooked. Although the advent of Interstate 40 rerouted traffic and transformed the landscape of American travel, the Frontier Motel has skillfully maintained much of its original character, standing as a testament to the rich history of the Mother Road.
The Frontier Motel in 2024.
Hackberry, Arizona:
The Hackberry General Store, dating back to the early 20th century in Hackberry, has transformed from a local hub into a renowned roadside attraction along Route 66. Originally serving the needs of nearby miners and travelers, it became a vibrant gathering place for locals and adventurers alike. Over the years, the store has amassed a vast collection of Route 66 memorabilia, vintage signs, classic cars, and various artifacts that embody the nostalgia of America’s highway era. Adorned with classic signage and antique gas pumps against Arizona’s desert backdrop, it stands as a cherished cultural landmark that captures the spirit of the Mother Road.
The exterior of the Hackberry General Store is adorned with an eclectic collection of vintage memorabilia, including classic Route 66 signs, nostalgic gas pumps, and colorful murals that celebrate the spirit of Americana. This charming display invites travelers to step back in time and relive the golden era of road trips and roadside attractions.
Inside the Hackberry General Store, visitors are greeted by a treasure trove of nostalgic items, including vintage snacks, Route 66 souvenirs, and quirky antiques that transport them back to the golden age of American road trips. The cozy atmosphere, filled with the scent of old wood and memories, invites travelers to explore a delightful collection of Americana and experience a step back in time.
1928 Ford Model A Coupe.
The white vintage Bennett Model 766 at the Hackberry General Store is a charming relic from mid-20th century travel, showcasing its classic design and timeless appeal. Once a familiar sight at roadside gas stations, this nostalgic piece invites visitors to reminisce about simpler times, when filling up was more than just a chore—it was an opportunity to connect with fellow travelers and share tales of adventure along the open road.
Seligman, Arizona:
Seligman is a vibrant town often credited as the birthplace of the highway’s modern-day revival. Rich in history, Seligman serves as a symbol of classic Americana, characterized by its retro architecture, neon signs, and nostalgic roadside attractions. The town played a crucial role in preserving the legacy of the Mother Road, with dedicated locals like Angel Delgadillo leading efforts to promote the area after it was bypassed by the interstate. Among its notable spots is the Roadkill Café, a quirky diner known for its playful menu items like “Guess That Mess” and “Smear of Deer.” Today, Seligman remains a beloved destination for those seeking to relive the nostalgia of a bygone era.
Delgadillo’s Snow Cap is a beloved roadside diner that embodies the quirky charm of Route 66. With its whimsical decor, including vintage signs and playful murals, this nostalgic eatery has been serving up delicious burgers and classic shakes since the 1950s. Patrons are drawn in not only by the mouthwatering food but also by the warm, friendly atmosphere where laughter and local stories flow as freely as the soda. A stop here offers a delightful taste of Americana and a chance to experience the spirit of the open road.
The Historic Route 66 Motel.
The Roadkill Café is a quirky dining spot that serves up humor alongside hearty meals, featuring a playful menu filled with creatively named dishes. With its rustic decor and lively atmosphere, this diner captures the essence of Route 66’s offbeat charm.
The branding for the Roadkill Café features a whimsical design showcasing a cartoonish vulture holding a knife and fork, perfectly capturing the diner’s quirky and lighthearted vibe. Accompanied by the catchy slogan, “You Kill It, We Grill It,” this branding invites diners to embrace the humor and charm that this unique eatery embodies.
Seligman, Arizona, is widely regarded as the inspiration behind the beloved animated film Cars, directed by John Lasseter and released in 2006. The town’s iconic Route 66 landmarks, quirky shops, and colorful murals reflect the spirit of the movie, bringing to life the characters and themes that resonated with audiences.
This classic Route 66 mural, located on the front of the Route 66 Road Relics gift shop in Seligman, Arizona, captures the iconic images of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. Seligman is renowned for its vibrant murals and rich history along this famous highway, making it a popular stop for travelers seeking a glimpse of Americana. Murals like this one celebrate the cultural significance of Route 66 and its connection to Hollywood legends. The artist, Lawrence Wesolowski, is a U.S. Army Vietnam veteran whose work often reflects his experiences and insights.
A Silent Deterioration: Preserving the Past.
It’s difficult to encapsulate this journey, which began in Victorville, California, and concluded in Seligman, Arizona—a distance of 346 miles. While this may seem like a small section compared to the epic 2,448-mile route stretching from Chicago, Illinois, to Santa Monica Beach, California, it offers a rich tapestry of history and nostalgia along the way. In John Steinbeck’s novel The Grapes of Wrath, he vividly illustrates the challenges of traveling along a two-lane highway from Oklahoma to California during the Great Depression. It’s hard to fathom those struggles in today’s world, where modern conveniences like air conditioning and digital playlists help pass the endless hours and miles. However, as I traveled, it became increasingly clear that outside the more prominent towns like Victorville, Kingman, and Seligman, smaller, less notable places are gradually fading into obscurity.
The gradual decline of Route 66’s historical significance is becoming more pronounced outside the larger populated areas. Many small towns that once thrived as key stops along the highway now stand as shadows of their former selves, featuring abandoned motels and faded storefronts. For instance, places like Amboy and Bagdad, which were once bustling hubs, have experienced a steady decline in industry, turning them into weathered ghost towns. This decay serves as a stark reminder of the changing landscape and the impact of modernity on these once-vibrant communities.
Additionally, as modern development encroaches upon the larger towns, the unique character of these communities is at risk of being lost forever. Locals and preservationists work tirelessly to maintain the legacy of the Mother Road, but the challenge is daunting; each passing year reveals new signs of neglect. The vibrant neon signs that once illuminated the night skies have dimmed, and the quirky roadside attractions that defined the journey are disappearing. This trend underscores the importance of not only remembering the history of Route 66 but also actively preserving it before it becomes merely a memory. As the landscape changes, the urgency to appreciate and safeguard the remaining elements of this historic route grows, compelling travelers to reflect on what has been lost and celebrate the stories that linger along the highway.
References Materials:
Steinbeck, J. (1939). The Grapes of Wrath. Penguin Books.
Ford, J. (Director). (1940). The Grapes of Wrath. 20th Century Fox.
Adlon, P. (Director). (1987). Bagdad Cafe. Orion Pictures.
U.S. Route 66. (n.d.). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved August 8, 2024, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Route_66
Route 66 Road Trip Guide. (2023, April 28). Roadtrippers. https://roadtrippers.com/the-ultimate-guide-route-66/
Image Sorce:
W. Eugene Smith (1939). Clark Gable and Carole Lombard on their wedding day, March 29, 1939. | Public Domain.