Shaconage:
Tucked into North Carolina's westernmost corner, you'll find the legendary Great Smoky Mountains, a mountain range rising along the Tennessee–North Carolina border in the southeastern United States. They are a subrange of the Appalachian Mountains and form part of the Blue Ridge geographic region. Long before European settlers came to the Smoky Mountains in the late 1600s, the Cherokee people inhabited the area, and today, their influence is still very strong. The Cherokee described these mountains as 'Shaconage' (Sha-Kon-O-Hey), meaning 'land of blue smoke.' A smoke-like natural bluish haze with mist-like clouds that rise following a rainstorm—which inspired the name 'Smoky Mountains.'
According to Cherokee legend, passed down through stories from generation to generation, hidden deep within the Smoky Mountains is an enchanted lake that humans cannot see. Known as Atagahi, this magical lake is an oasis for every kind of animal, with thousands of waterbirds, fish, reptiles, and bears. In one story, the enchanted lake reveals itself to a young Cherokee man after days of fasting and continuous prayer. Having proven that he has no intention to hunt at Atagahi, the pure-hearted man is permitted to see the lake's stunning violet water and plentiful wildlife. When his vision ends, the man marks the secret lake's location with a pile of rocks. Several years later, a terrible winter brings the Cherokee to the brink of starvation. Faced with no other choice, the young hunter returns to Atagahi to bring food to his family. However, when he shoots a bear with his bow, the animal falls into the purple water and emerges unscathed. The bear tells the hunter that he has betrayed them, and a furious horde attacks him. After the snowstorm passes, the Cherokee finds the body, but there are no tracks from the bears who mauled him. Forever sealed off from human intrusion after the young hunter's treachery; legend has it that you can still see morning mist rise from the magic lake when you stand at the top of Clingmans Dome.
Oconaluftee Mountain Farm Museum is a unique collection of historic log buildings gathered and assembled from locations throughout the Smoky Mountains. Visitors can explore a log farmhouse, barn, apple house, springhouse, and a working blacksmith shop to get a sense of how families lived over 100 years ago. Most of the structures were built in the late 19th century and were moved here in the 1950s. The Davis House (pictured here), offers a rare chance to view a log house built from chestnut wood before the chestnut blight decimated the American Chestnut in our forests during the 1930s and early 1940s. The museum is adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center. .
Mingus Mill, constructed in 1886, is a historic grist mill, and a working piece of history that should not be missed. It provides a rare opportunity to glimpse at life during the time the North American continent was being settled. The Mingus family moved into the Oconaluftee Valley in the late 1700s. Most historians think that the existing mill, the one pictured here, is the second mill on this site. The current mill was completed in 1886 and was one of the most advanced mills in the area. Its unique use of a water-powered turbine, instead of a water wheel—powered all of the machinery in the building. Dr. John Mingus contracted with Sion Thomas Early to build the structure, who agreed to do the job in three months for $600. His initials, 'STE,' are cut into the front gable just under the eaves. The mill remained in the Mingus-Floyd family until they sold it to the emerging National Park in 1930.
Wild Cherry Creek. Stepping off the beaten path is not necessarily the easiest way to see the park—but it is undoubtedly the most rewarding. By blazing your own trail, you can find many unique aspects of the great outdoors; the harder the path, the fewer people are likely to follow it.
This roadside waterfall on the Little River is one of the most popular attractions in the Smokies. The Sinks is not only one of the most stunning falls, but they are also extremely accessible and don't require a long hike. This powerful 15-foot waterfall is named for the large whirlpool at its base that swirls like water draining in a sink. Like any waterfall in the Smokies, the Sinks are particularly stunning after a large rainstorm. This impressive waterfall channels the entire volume of the Little River and creates strong currents. Over time, the power of the river has created a deep swimming hole that's popular during the summer months.
Morton Overlook: If you want to experience the true elevation of the Great Smoky Mountains, consider stopping at Morton’s Overlook; this is one of the best places to see the true grandeur of the Smokies. At 5,048-feet, you can enjoy views of North Carolina and Tennessee.
Cades Cove:
Cades Cove is an isolated 6,800-acre valley located in the Tennessee section of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It is the single most popular destination for tourists, attracting more than two million visitors a year—due to its well-preserved homesteads, scenic mountain views, and abundant display of wildlife. European settlers first settled the area in the early 1800s, contributing to the region's wide variety of historic buildings. Driving the valley loop is like stepping back in time, visiting a period that can only be seen by viewing historical pictures. Cade's Cove has left a lasting mark on the landscape—with a strong historical presence that is still felt today. The Cades Cove Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The Cades Cove scenic drive, is an 11-mile, one-way scenic loop. The picturesque setting of this valley is simply breathtaking! This protected valley, with its plentiful water sources and abundant food, attracts a profusion of wildlife. To increase the likelihood of seeing wildlife, consider touring Cades Cove close to dawn or dusk.
John and Lucretia Oliver introduced the Baptist denomination to Cades Cove in 1825. The Primitive Baptist Church, which was initially established in 1827, is located on Primitive Baptist Church Road, off Cades Cove Loop. This congregation was the first of three churches built in Cades Cove and experienced a major split due to different religious interpretations regarding temperance societies, Sunday School, and missionary work. Until October 1832, the church met in members' homes until a crude, rough log structure was assembled—which lasted until 1887, when the white frame church building, seen here, was erected. Since the Primitive Baptist Church backed the Union during the Civil War, the church decided it was too dangerous to meet during the war due to the strong Confederate presence in the valley. This church resisted closure until the 1960s, more than 20 years after the establishment of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
One story that encapsulates the Smokies' Civil War experience is that of Russell Gregory, whom Gregory's Bald is named, buried in the graveyard behind the Primitive Baptist Church. Gregory, a Union sympathizer and one of Cades Cove's most prominent residents, was shot by a band of marauding Confederates in 1864, three years into the Civil War. The story goes that Confederates had camped in a hollow just a short distance from Gregory's house. Discovering they had butchered his steer, Gregory took his rifle and tried to make them pay. The thieves shot Gregory, who managed to get back to his cabin before dying later that night. Gregory's son Charles fought on the Confederate side and is said to have played a role in his father's death. While no major battles were fought in the region that would become Great Smoky Mountains National Park, the mountain people's split allegiance between the North and South played out in guerrilla skirmishes and frequent raids that pitted neighbor against neighbor, even father against son.
The Missionary Baptist Church: Due to conflict and resulting division at the Primitive Baptist Church, the Missionary Baptist Church was formed in 1841. Even though the congregants had no church building to meet at, the group of original members alternated meeting at each others’ homes. During the Civil War, the church was not able to safely meet due to political discourse. Following the Civil War, the revival circuit was in full swing, and the church experienced substantial growth. In 1894, over 50 years after being established, the church was finally able to construct its building on Hyatt Hill. Shortly after that, the membership of the church steadily grew from 40 members to over 100 members. Consequently, the church needed a larger building and constructed the current structure (pictured here). The Missionary Baptist Church on Cades Cove Loop Road was completed in 1915.
John P Cable built this grist mill in 1867, and today, 153-years later, it's one of the most famous landmarks in Cades Cove. In the late 1800s, this mill provided homesteads with a place to turn corn or wheat into flour. In addition to milling grains, the mill was also used to cut lumber. John P. Cable was a descendant of Peter Cable, a Pennsylvania Dutch farmer. He arrived in the area in the 1820s and designed an elaborate system to drain the swampy lands in the western part of the cove. John Cable was the only person in Cades Cove to use an overshot water wheel. This gravity wheel harnesses the gravity force acting vertically on the water as it travels from the top to the bottom of the wheel. Cable Mill's power was supplied by Mill Creek, although a connecting channel was dug to Forge Creek so the mill could tap both streams when water levels were low. The mill was an essential part of life for the 700 or so people living in the cove during that time.
Although the current wheel for the Cable Mill has been in use since 2000, water wheels have historically been swapped out every seven to ten years. Over time, wheels start to wear out and rot to the point where they do not turn correctly. Back in the day, mill owners would have spare wheels waiting in their barn. In 2000, Delayne Hodges, a historic preservation expert, was charged with the mission of building a brand new wheel for the mill, as there weren't any spare wheels available. Hodges took measurements of the existing wheel and drew it out to size in his workshop. The new wheel (pictured here) is made from locally-milled white oak, a wood indigenous to the area, and would have been used due to its resistance to water. The lumber and hardware for the wheel cost $7,400. It took Hodges four weeks to complete it.
John P Cable Grist Mill
Also known as the Becky Cable House, Leason Gregg purchased land from John P. Cable and built it in 1879 with lumber from Cable Mill. It is believed to be the first all-farm house in the Cove. Originally located south of its present location on Forge Creek Road, it was the first used as a store and later as a residence and boarding house.
Inside the Becky Cable House. This room is original to the building when it was used as a store. The house never had indoor plumbing, and the heat was generated from the fireplace.
A Studebaker, freight, box, one horse (or mule) hitch wagon.
The Carter Shields Cabin is a rustic log cabin believed to have been built in the 1830s. George Washington, 'Carter' Shields, a veteran of the Civil War and crippled at the Battle of Shiloh in April 1862, called this cabin his home from 1910 - 1921. Dogwood trees bloom here in the early spring making this cabin one of the loveliest in the Cades Cove and a beautiful place for Shields to retire.
All the buildings throughout Cades Cove are listed on the National Register of Historic Places; these buildings have stood the test of time—almost all of them predate the American Civil War (1861 - 1865). They are reminders of our ancestry and need to be protected so that future generations can enjoy them. Thanks to Robert, Brittany, Brady, Keaton, and Sullivan, your act of vandalism defaces the buildings. Admittedly, you're not the only names on this cabin, but you have needlessly added to the destruction with your graffiti. There may come a time when you realize the error of your ways and put it down to a youthful transgression—but you're irresponsible and stupid.
Spring Wildflowers in the Smokies:
Smoky Mountains National Park is a world-renowned preserve of wildflower diversity—claiming a recorded 1,500 flowering plants in the park—more than in any other North American national park. The park is commonly referred to as the 'Wildflower National Park.' From the earliest hepaticas and spring-beauties in the late winter to the last asters in the late fall, blooming flowers can be found year-round.
Eastern Daisy (Erigeron annuus)
Red Clover, Cowgrass (Trifolium pratense)